Ocean waves are dynamic expressions of energy traveling through the ocean’s surface. They are primarily generated by wind, which transfers energy to the water through friction. When wind blows across the sea, small ripples form; as the wind continues, these ripples grow into larger waves through a process known as wave reinforcement [1].

A wave consists of alternating crests (high points) and troughs (low points), characterized by measurable properties: wavelength, wave height, and period. These properties determine how a wave moves and interacts with its environment. Importantly, waves transport energy, not water mass. Water particles move in circular orbits, returning nearly to their original positions as the wave passes [2].

As waves approach shallow coastal waters, their behaviour changes. The orbits of water particles become compressed, causing the wave to slow down, grow taller, and eventually break. This process, known as wave shoaling, explains why waves are more dramatic near shorelines. Breaking waves release large amounts of energy, shaping coastlines through erosion and sediment transport [3].

Ocean waves also exhibit complex interactions such as interference—when waves combine to form larger or smaller waves—and refraction, the bending of waves as they encounter varying depths. These phenomena play key roles in coastal engineering, navigation, and climate studies [4].

Overall, the physics of ocean waves reveals a fascinating interplay between wind, water, and energy—one that shapes marine environments and influences human activity around the globe.

References

1. Kinsman, B. Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface.
2. Holthuijsen, L. Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters.
3. Komar, P. Beach Processes and Sedimentation.
4. Dean, R. & Dalrymple, R. Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists.

Author: Dr. Emma Ziezie Mohd Tarmizi

            Physics Unit, ASPutra

Date of Input: 02/12/2025 | Updated: 02/12/2025 | emma